Central Nam

Last week was a five-day national holiday to celebrate a number of things including Reunification (April 30^th – the day Saigon/HCMC fell/was liberated), International Labor Day and May Day. As such the students had five days, which meant that it was time for a vacation, and since I have seen the North and live in the South all that was left was the middle. Of course I didn’t go alone – I went with the most spectacular and entertaining travel buddy anyone could wish for, fellow ETA Michelle Brown! We have traveled together over New Years in HCMC and Hanoi and our similar sense of humor and general desire to run early in the morning, then saunter and café it up all day with a good book make our trips fun and relaxing.

On this trip we took in the sights of Hue, Da Nang and Hoi An. We started in Hue where we hung with fellow Fulbright ETA Anna – who is awesome and super cool. Hue was the northern most city of South Vietnam when it existed and it is also home to the ancient Citadel. Hue is spilt by a wide river called the perfume river. On the north side is the old imperial city, and across the river to the south is the new modern city. The Citadel covers 520 hectares (1,285 acres) and is enclosed by a 26’ high 6-mile long wall with 10 watchtowers and a moat. The Citadel is laid out in a similar fashion to the Forbidden City in Beijing with many smaller enclosures and courtyards opening onto more courtyards. Unfortunately the Citadel was heavily bombed during the war and while restoration is underway large swathes of it remain decimated. During the Tet Offensive the Citadel was used as the last holdout of the Viet Cong so monument was largely ruined.

As I spent time walking through ancient imperial city the feeling of beautiful decay washed over me and settled like a gray cloud. If you have ever been to Venice you know this feeling. The fact that some of the beauty of this place is because it’s so ancient it’s crumbling and you get the sense that it’s time here is fading. The fleetingness gives everything that last tinge of luster as the city slowly sings it swan song. Unlike Venice Hue isn’t sinking, but it’s sad and sublime all the same. Pictures below.

Michelle and I outside the Imperial Citadel

After taking some time in the Citadel we ventured back to civilization where we took a bike ride to a local pagoda and monastery outside of town called the Thien Mu Pagoda. This pagoda is set up on a hill on the banks of the perfume river. It features incredible gardens and pine trees that perfume the air reminded me of Da Lat. Beyond it’s pretty location, and being an active monastery, it’s also the former home of Thich Quang Duc. While the name won’t ring a bell what he did will.

In 1963 he traveled to Saigon and sat calmly in a square, was doused with kerosene and lit himself on fire. He never flinched or screamed, cried or whimpered – he just burned. He was protesting President’s Ngo Dinh Diem’s repressive “democratic” regime. The Austin car he drove to Saigon is at the monastery.

Dragon River boats you can rent to ride to the monastery if biking isn't quite your style.

The Perfume River, which bisects Hue

The main tower of the pagoda can only be reached by ascending this steep staircase

This is the famous photograph of Thick Quang Duc self-immolating in protest. His actions shocked hte world and stirred his people, he is seen as a martyr and is venerated for his bravery. His car is below.

After the biking Michelle and I hit up a rooftop pool, grabbed some drinks and watched the sun set over the Hue sky. The next morning we met Anna and were off to Da Nang. We took a 3-hour bus ride through the mountains up tight roads to reach Da Nang.

View from our Hue to Da Nang bus rest stop

Travel companions - fellow ETAs Michelle (left) and Anna (right)

Da Nang couldn’t be more different then Hue. Hue has a self-awareness and reverence for it’s imperial past. Da Nang is charging so quickly into the developed western future that it’s past is being bulldozed. If Vietnam was to have a (slightly more conservative) Las Vegas – it is Da Nang. Skyscrapers are sprouting up like daisies and they are all mostly empty shells. Bridges twinkle and shimmer and bougie restaurants abound and yet Vietnam is at times conspicuously absent or at least hidden.

Michelle and I started with some exploration of the city. We focused on the mountains on the peninsula immediately to the north called Monkey Mountain. Monkey Mountain is one of the first areas where American troops made landfall and has a military base at its peak. While the base is off limits you can motorbike around the mountain and get some spectacular views. Unfortunately for use the afternoon monsoon/thunderstorm/lightening show was rolling in. That coupled with failing brakes, which at times tried to send Michelle, Anna (the ETA from Hue, she accompanied use for the day), her cousin and I all to our deaths we took 2 pictures and went home. The coastline with its steep cliffs reminded me of the Amalfi coast in Italy. Except that instead of olive and Cyprus trees you have jungle and instead of ancient Catholic churches you have a gigantic Buddha – if you squinted though you could see the Mediterranean and Capri.

Also we caught an international fireworks competition taking place over the Reunification Holiday. Vietnam, Japan, Italy, Russia and America competed. We saw Japan and America’s displays. Really awkwardly the United States won (and beat) Vietnam in the competition – on Reunification Day – the day they celebrate kicking our scared asses all the way back across the Pacific. The American representative at the awards ceremony looked well – confused, very confused.

Our ride/tumble down and flee from Monkey Mountain. I got to sport the hot pink rental helmet and I'm rockin' it. You know you're jealous.

The coastline of Monkey Mountain

Skyline of Da Nang

Dragon Bridge and the new cable-stayed bridge in Da Nang

Monsoon in the afternoon of Day 2

Da Nang by night - the perfect backdrop for fireworks

The next day Michelle and took a quick jaunt to Hoi An, another ancient town about 11 km south of Da Nang. Hoi An has been modeled into a center for fine silks and tailoring. It caters rather exclusively to foreign tourists with a number of perks including: banning street food, banning the roaming “gangs” of street sellers, banning cars and most motorbikes in the central 9 block tourist area.

The architecture is beautiful and its river is quaint with flag draped bridges and docked fishing trawlers but both Michelle and I felt like we stepped into Epcot – a truly startling and un-Vietnamese experience. There was no noise, no chaos, no heckling, no bargaining, no wondering children selling lottery tickets, no chatter – just pretty lanes and mostly foreigners blissfully (and foolishly) thinking what a great ‘real’ experience they were getting. Perhaps if I had started in Hoi An I would have loved it, but after living in Nam – the real Nam, the provincial Nam – I found Hoi An to be a creepy and stale place. So after 3 hours Michelle and I clamored back onto the local bus, squatted on the floor and sweated the 1 hour 11 km ride back to Da Nang. 

Sleepy Hoi An

Some of Hoi An's architecture

Hoi An's Thu Bon River

Ancient Japanese covered bridge built to ward off evil spirits 

Later that day we tried to get to the beach. Central Vietnam is renowned for it’s beaches and Da Nang happens to have one of the best. Running from Monkey Mountain 19 miles to the south China Beach’s straight of fine white sand dip into turquoise blue water. Only problem was that afternoon monsoon that chased us off Monkey Mountain was barreling down upon use for the third afternoon in a row so we took some photos and with the pronouncement of the thunder we scurried back to the city.

China Beach before the storm clouds extinguished the sun 

Paradise - just don't look up

By Friday it was time to say goodbye to Michelle and Central Nam. I was off to HCMC for a quick rest, where I ran into Andrew – the fellow who nearly 10 months ago taught us Fulbright ETAs how to teach English as a foreign language. Then back to sleepy Cao Lãnh. Next weekend I am foolishly running a 10k in Phu Quoc – Vietnam’s southern most island off the Cambodian coast at 3:30 pm in the afternoon in May… if I don’t turn into a prune I will blog about it next week. Till then have a great week!

From the minute I ordered it I knew it was having a photo op, and when I tasted my passion fruit souffle with homemade ice cream it was totally blog worthy. Best dessert EVER!